Day 8: Actually Teaching

OK, even though I have been a teacher for more years than I like to recall, I still get a little nervous on the first day of school. It isn’t the nerves of will they like me, I am not concerned about that, but more of how will these personalities mesh with each other.  I know my content and I know how to teach but the interactions of each class differ because of the student dynamics.  This means that I have to alter my presentations and manner of instruction to best fit the make-up of the class.

Not only will I have my normal first day with my three classes when school starts back in August; I had my first day in India with nine classes.  That is right, nine classes and the school day is 7:25 - 3:15.  So my day with students begins earlier and ends later than I am used to (I know I am normally never there that early but I stay later and I don’t have students late in the afternoon).

The day begins with me walking to the gate of the complex to be picked up by one of the other teachers, if that hadn’t worked out I could have walked or taken my new favorite form of transportation, the auto-rickshaw.  We quickly get to school and navigate through the throngs of parents and drivers dropping off students for their first day back after summer holidays. 

I meet one of the teachers that I am going to teach with and walk to her classroom.  She has the students lined up to report for the whole school assembly. She teaches grade 9 and I walk with her as she lines the students up on their step of the amphitheater and then I notice it; the boys are shoving and poking and thumping each other.  I wasn’t sure how the students were going to act; this was one of the elite private schools in New Delhi and there are the 9th grade boys shoving each other, gee that looks familiar.  Their teacher kept separating them and standing close to them and guess what, I was doing the same thing.  Imagine, the teacher death stare is the same in other countries.  After a while the boys settled down and the assembly began.  Announcements were made and the national anthem was sung and then the students went back to their classrooms.

I spent the first two periods of the day learning the layout of the school with my host teacher, Mona.  We saw the upper school, grades 6-12 on the one side of the amphitheater and the lower school, elementary aged on the other side.  Since neither of us teaches elementary age students, it was a quick tour through their facilities.

If I haven’t expressed it before, New Delhi is hot.  Students had already gotten an extended summer break because of the intense heat.  The temperature is well into the 90’s before noon with oppressive humidity.  I know ever year I threaten to spend my summers somewhere cooler than North Carolina and where do I do someplace with weather even hotter.  Oh and if I forgot to mention it, the classrooms do not have air conditioning.

So I have just climbed to the third floor, to teach ninth graders world history in a classroom lacking air conditioning and I feel like I am going to melt into a puddle and die.  I present the information about my school and the only real question I got was “Is your school air conditioned”  and when I answered “yes” you should have seen the glares directed at the teacher.  Even though I had seen the morning behaviors I still wasn’t quite sure what to expect.  I think that I was expecting perfection, little student robots quietly doing everything asked of them without any comment or protest.  What I saw was quite different, I saw students begging for a smaller homework assignment, getting chastised for not taking notes or paying attention.  In general, the students acted like a normal class of American students.

In all of the classes that I was in, I presented a little about North Carolina and the school where I teach, Starmount High.  The students were interested in the fact that my students, if they had their license could drive to school (they cannot), there are no uniforms (they have them), we have air conditioned classrooms, and students can have cell phones (they are not allowed at school).

Partial schedule of one classroom.  You can see how the subject order switches.

What I found interesting was that the class stays together and the teacher comes to them, with the exceptions of PE, arts, and lab classes.  They also did not have the same schedule every day.  In all of the classes the weeks schedule was posted and their classes alternated class periods and some classes were double lessons.  There was also a private study build into the day,  a study hall in which every student was provided one class period to work on homework at school and they could get a teacher’s help during that time.  The homework schedule was also posted, as to which classes would have official homework assignments that would be due the next day.  There were at most three classes of assigned homework a night, with maths and sciences having the most days of assigned homework.  But, before my students get to happy, I was told that the average was two hours of homework a night.

I taught two different history lessons, I taught the between the war years German history or the rise of Hitler, and Roman history and culture.  These were to the grade 9 and 11 classes.  I also observed other social science classes throughout the day.  The students were willing to participate in discussion and asked good questions.

The lessons that I taught were all before lunch, which is at 1:33 and the whole school has 25 minutes to eat their lunch.  Before you ask, “How big is the cafeteria?”; there isn’t one.  The meals are brought outside of the classrooms and students get their lunch and take it to the stairs, hallways, or classrooms and eat.  There is only one choice and all students are provided the same meal.  The meal choice is also vegetarian.  Some students also brought snacks to eat during the morning breaks.

Students during lunch period.

As for me by the end of the day I was exhausted.  I am always a little wiped out the first student day after summer break but this was different.  I have never taught in a day that long or in such intense heat.  

Day 7: Shopping and Ruins

I hadn't planned for a busy day because I was scheduled to teach the following day and there were a few things that I still needed to plan.

We had negotiated prices for a cab the night before, and our price was 1,000 rupees for the day, that is less than twenty U.S. dollars.  I know, a one way ride in a cab from an airport to a hotel is normally more than that.  With our host, we had developed a working itinerary which we would provide to the driver.

First up, the Sarojini Market.  We were told to devote several hours to the market; I don’t think that if we had spent the entire day here we could have seen everything.  There were food stands, vegetable carts, clothing, jewelry, almost anything.  Think American flea market, then make it as large you can imagine, then double it in size, and fill it full of people and that might give you an inkling about this market.

As I strolled through the market, trying to get my bearings, I was greeted by numerous hawkers wandering around with sunglasses, tablecloths, or handkerchiefs for sale.  These people, who looked like pre-teens, would pester you until they were distracted by someone else.  But, I had watched how the locals got rid of them, they would make a shooing motion with their hand, say a firm no (without an explanation), and walk away.  Ignoring them didn’t work they would only get more persistent. They were ever present; every time I would round a corner there would be another batch of young people selling the same items.  It was like a game, dodging them.

But for the shopping, it ranged from plowing through tables of merchandise in the sweltering New Delhi heat to well maintained air conditioned stores.  Sometimes they had my new favorite sign, “Fixed Price”.  For those that are aghast that I would dare to pay the full price in the market, please remember that I haven’t mastered the art of haggling and even though the signs said fixed price that didn’t mean that the price couldn’t be dropped.  There were t-shirts for a little over a dollar and dress shirts for under four dollars, both fixed price.  

People were everywhere, looking for bargains.  But for me, it wasn’t just the heat, or the crowds, but the fact that if I mentioned a color or an item all of a sudden the over eager vendors would be thrusting numerous items at me pointing out the wonderful qualities.   It was too much for me, I don’t like large crowds and I like to meander and browse taking my time before making decision and this was full contact shopping.

I was able to buy fabric but this was unlike fabric shopping at home, where I wander throughout the bolts of material comparing fabrics, colors, and costs.  Instead I mentioned a color to the salesman and all of a sudden three bolts appeared on the table in two different directions and before I could even make a decision more and more fabrics were thrust in front of me.  It was almost overwhelming trying to make a decision.  I had sensory overload.

Underwear buying on the street.

Afterwords we went back to Hauz Khas, we walked through the narrow lanes past all of the store fronts until we reached the back fence and walked through the gate into the Hauz Khas complex.  After the crowds, the heat, and the pavement of the shopping area - this was bliss.  There were trees, grass, a lake, and for me, ruins.  

Building was begun at the complex in the 1200s.  It housed a madrasa (a Muslim school and seminary), tombs, water reservoir, and a village.  Some of the buildings are intact but others are in ruins.  The area is fenced off with large apartments overlooking the village remains. 

Just being in contact with the needed shade of the trees and the breeze coming of the lake was wonderful and refreshing. I was thrilled that I was allowed near ruins that were more than a half a century old and seeing the wonderful workmanship of the carvings and imagining how someone with only hand tools could create such beauty.

These two different activities helped me to see the complexities of modern India.  India has a thriving commerce sector filled with all types of retail outlets yet just around the corner are these elegant temples and ruins from the past.  History coexists with the present in India which shapes decisions for its future.

Day 6: Eunuchs on the Staircase

You know it will be a memorable day when one of your first coherent sentences before breakfast is “There are eunuchs coming down the stairs.”

As I was waiting for breakfast, I looked out the front door and saw these elegant women dressed in the most elaborate sarees I had ever seen. I thought they were guests from the upstairs neighbor’s wedding.  I was commenting on this to our host when she stated, “Oh, those are eunuchs hired for the wedding”. I tried to keep the befuddled look off of my face as she continued to explain that eunuchs were hired for important occasions and people at the festivities would pay them.

Ok, eunuchs aren’t just confined to history.  They are real and apparantly can earn a good living.  New fact for the day.

The rest of the day was spent with me drinking endless bottles of water, especially my new favorite, Kinley (well it is my name).  

I also got to do one of my favorite things when I travel, see historical things.  First up Qutub Minar which is a UNESCO world heritage site.  The Minar is a minaret, composed of sandstone and marble, and part of a complex that is made up of numerous buildings that were built from Hindu and Jain temples.  This complex is huge with numerous ruins of various tombs, buildings, mosque, madarsa, and temples.  They are mostly made up of sandstone and have elegant carvings and calligraphy.

There were gardens all around and as I walked through the ruins I felt both humbled and at peace.  I was humbled because construction on the minar began in 1192.  As I looked I kept thinking that this was built over 800 years ago and they were able to make such intricate carvings without the use of modern tools.  The peacful feeling came from watching the reverence people paid to the site.  In order to get to the buildings one had to walk through garden paths which made me forget or escape the fact that I was in Delhi, population almost 17 million. 

The history continue’s at another UNESCO world heritage site, Humayun’s Tomb.  This was begun in 1562.  As the tomb of a Mughal ruler, Humayun, but also contains tombs for other officials as well as symmetrical gardens on all sides. 

Qutub Minar and Iron Pillar

Last up for the day was shopping at Haus Khas Village.  I didn’t get to see the ruins behind the shopping area but instead got to meander through the tiny alleyways and see different types of craft and clothing stores.  I was not sure what to expect when we left the taxi at the gate and began stepping over puddles and mud.  The gate keeper loosened the rope which let the bar blocking the road raise up and we walked under the bar.  All I could see were extremely narrow streets with two above ground levels of shops.  The alleys seemed endless and I was never sure where we would end up.  All I could see were endless curios and elegant sarees.  The area seemed almost magical with the unmarked alleys and beautiful items for sale.  I tried on or admired numerous sparklies, jewelry, and even bought a few pieces.  It was the perfect ending for a memorable day.

Qutub Minar

Qutub Complex

Humayun's Tomb

Looking at the gate, or darwaza, from Humayun's Tomb

Day 5: The First Day in Delhi

My first real day in Delhi, India.  I was supposed to observe and teach today but because of the heat, school was postponed until Monday, July 9.  

A little about the heat in Delhi.  I was told that it was 40.  In my thinking that is a cold for July. Then it dawned on me temperature in India is measured in Celsius; rather than the U.S. standard, Fahrenheit. After I translated the temperature into Fahrenheit, I realized that it is over 100. But like North Carolina it is not just the heat but the humidity which means that the temperature is similar to an oven setting.

Even though there were no students at school I did get to spend some time at the school I was assigned, Vasant Valley.  As I walked through the gate of the school I was overwhelmed by the size of the school.  The school is red sandstone and it is three stories high (in American height, most of the world two stories - the first floor is the ground floor and then first) and has two wings. 

My job was not to gawk at the school but to make a presentation to the social science department (social studies).  My presentation was on the technology and teaching strategies that I regularly incorporate into my own classes. Several teachers asked me to share more in depth regarding some of the projects that I regularly use in my classes. 

I got to meet a large number of the staff of the upper school, (U.S. middle and high school teachers) at a lunch that they arranged for us.  The lunch was traditional Indian food but I noticed two familiar dishes, fried okra and tomato and cucumber salad.  The teachers were extremely friendly and explained what foods I was eating. They also pre-warned me which foods were hot.  A word of advice, if Indians warn you that food is hot avoid it.  It is new levels of hot.

Next up, our host teacher, Mona, arranged for us to see some of the local sites. We didn’t get to visit to many sites today.  We saw Dilli Haat, a craft bazaar with crafts from all over India. In order to enter, you have to pay an entrance fee and go through security.  There were all types of crafts from jewelry, clothing, furniture, toys, and handmade paper.  Most of the stores were open air, unfortunately due to the heat I could not enjoy the experience. However there were a few stores that I loved, not so much for their products but most importantly, they were enclosed and had air conditioning.  I also had my first real experience with haggling and realized it is a skill that I don’t have. The art to haggling is to pretend that you are not really interested in whatever you are trying to buy and basically half whatever price you are first quoted and then negotiate the price from there.   

We also visited Khan Market, a shopping area full of wonderfully inclosed air conditioned stores with fixed prices.  I cannot describe how hot it really was but I felt like I was going to collapse in a puddle of goo.  Even in my semi-melted state I could enjoy the beauty of the traditional Indian clothes that I saw in the stores.  Salwar kemeez are long tunics and pants that are worn with a scarf or dupatta.  They come in every color imaginable with elegant embroidery.  

Day 4: The Airport Adventure Continues...

Well, I learned today that in India you have to have a hardcopy of your flight information before security will even let you in the airport.  So I go to the counter to get them to print out my information and the guy goes on break. Yet again, airport workers go on break when I need them.  Eventually the next person provided me with the paper work so I head inside to go to the furthest line and wander through the maze of ribbon to get to the counter and check in. 

Then my group heads to security and I notice something.  The security lines are either male or female and even better there are two lines for women and about twelve for men.  So guess which lines take the longest.  I also didn’t see any sign to take electronics out of my bag which I forgot to do and then had the fun of taking them out and rescanning my bag.  This process seemed to take forever and there were many women complaining because either we all missed the sign or there wasn’t one. Somehow I think that there wasn’t a sign for me to see.

The flight itself was smooth and better still I had the entire row to myself.  As I looked out the window as we approached New Delhi I kept thinking this looks like a desert.  As we left the airport the intense heat smacked me upside the head. Our host teacher Mona, greeted us and we sped off to our bed and breakfast.  

As we lugged our suitcases up the stairs we were greeted by our host Vandana.  She showed us our rooms and how to navigate the perils of electric outlets and the air conditioner.  She also graciously gave us list of places to go and things to see.

We traveled to Gurgaon and did a little bit of shopping.  There were tons and tons of scarves in all fabrics and patterns.  It was wonderful. After a brief shopping interlude we headed back to the bed and breakfast for much needed sleep.

Day 3: Being an American Celebrity on the 4th of July

I now know what it feels like to be a celebrity.  How do you ask, does an ordinary high school teacher become a celebrity?  It is simple, travel to another country and tour a school.  Students were cheering and asking for autographs.  It was enough to make me laugh.

Our group toured two schools today one a public (for Americans that is a private school) and the other a government school (for Americans a public school).  Trying to keep the distinction between the two schools is difficult.  

First off, we toured a public school. I don’t know what I was expecting but it was an experience.  Our bus meandered (hurled at death defying speeds through Bangalore traffic dodging all modes of transportation) towards the school and then the road shrank and we had to park and walk the rest of the way.  Two students from the school came to meet our group and lead us through auto-rickshaws, motorcycles, scooters, dogs, and cows.  We were lead into a building with stacks of televisions on both sides of the hall.  We wandered past all of this to the office where the owner of the school spoke to us.  

At this school tuition was about $6 a month and all students were tested and teachers recommended if they should attend the school.  Not only were the students tested but the parents were checked as well.  There were video cameras in all classrooms and classes were taught in English. But classes were packed with up to 45 students in a class and some of the teachers were barely out of high school.  

When we entered the classes the students wanted us to sit beside them and they asked us questions.  They wanted us to take our pictures with them and the funniest of all was that we were swarmed with students asking us for our autographs.  

As a teacher I don’t know how those young women could teach so many students in such a confined space.  All of the class materials were either stacked in the corner or a a shelf in the classroom.  Most classes used chalk boards but there were a few smartboards being used in classes.  

To go to the rest of the school we had to leave that building walk two buildings down and enter through a curtain.  We walked past an apartment and storage to the staircase where we could here the students voices coming from down the stairwell.  There were classes on the next three floors.

Our next school visit was at a government school. Either by this point the death defying rides don’t phase me or it was fairly calm trip.  I am thinking that I have got used to the traffic. 

The infrastructure of the school was better with the school in one building, a computer lab, and much smaller class sizes.  The teachers in the government school actually were trained teachers and their classes were working on a variety of activities. There was a nice covered courtyard in which students gathered for assemblies or ran chasing a soccer ball.

There was also a nursery program in the front hall of the school where smaller children were being cared for and a preschool class that had numerous activities that they were doing.

However this school was at a disadvantage because the better educated parents and those with resources pay to attend a public school (there is a huge range in quality).  They accept whatever students live in the area.  The principal arranged for donors to provide a second uniform for students to wear. 

Both schools had similarities: students wore uniforms, attended classes on Saturdays (my students, ok me too, are cringing at that), and largely boys.  These schools also taught in not just one but three languages: Kannada, Hindi, and English.  

These were both schools that were actively working in improving the lives of their students.  But even though I saw the potential I am troubled by the limitations that these students will have because of their education.

Day 2: Barefoot in Bangalore

Today is the day we took a tour of Bangalore.  I first learned about the colonial era in India.  I hadn’t realized that it was occurring in the same time frame as the American Revolution and the French Revolution and that people from those different events were interconnected.  General Cornwallis (the loser against George Washington) went to India and fought in Bangalore as well as Nelson (who fought against Napoleon).  

The Holy Trinity Church was built for the English forces and their families and was around the corner of our hotel.  It was filled with plaques for different soldiers that had died while being stationed in the area; this included plaques for soldiers that died fighting in conflicts in Afghanistan.  It seems that some things never change.

I saw a McDonalds which had an extensive value menu but no hamburgers.  When the restaurant came to India that was one of the conditions that they had to meet however there was a TGI Fridays upstairs from McDonalds that sold hamburgers and steaks.  I thought that was a little strange.

We next walked through a poor neighborhood.  We had to dodge cows and calves wandering through the streets.  They were on their way to different areas to graze and they would return home in time for milking.  Most of the homes had intricate designs on the street in front of the house.  These patterns were made with chalk every morning as a good luck symbol.  One area was a cleared grassy area where the remains of a house stood complete with a cow eating.  Our guide explained to her that we were American teachers that had come to learn about education in India.  She then spoke to us, in English, that she had torn down her house to build a bigger one on the same spot.  The cows would be on the ground floor and her family would live in the remaining upper floors.  I was shocked that someone from a poor area could speak English so well and the fact that cows live in the house with you.

We wander through the narrow lanes continuing to dodge cows, people, and motorcycles until we came to a market.  Every type of fresh fruit, vegetable, and grain was available.  Stall after stall of vibrant colors and the smells of fresh herbs everywhere as well as vendors peeling the outer leaves off cabbages and cows grabbing and eating.  Yes, we were still dodging cows.  We could hear a low chant of Om from the Hindu Temple ahead of us. Then our guide explains that there is a meat market in the back that sold not just chicken but also beef. He told us that Muslims eat beef so it was available to buy.  Also in the market they had stacks of fuel, cow manure.  There were stacks of dried manure that people could buy to burn apparently it burns clean without an odor.

The last highlight for the day was going to the Hindu Temple.  The chants were getting louder as we approached and then we had to take off our shoes and give them to an attendant.  We walked barefoot over the red soil until we reached the flower sellers.  The sold long strands of brightly colored flowers that were to be used as an offering.  When we reached the temple we were then walking on cool stone floors.  We walked inside through fairly dark hallway until we reached a priest who took the flowers, spoke, waved a flame, and then marked our forehead with chalk.  Our guide explained to the priests who we were. We continued around and came to two more priests that were there.  The last priest told our group, again in English, that teachers had important jobs.  As we left the temple I did notice a sign that told people to turn off their mobile phones.  We walked around the temple where our guide explained that the history and culture of the region was carved into the sculpture of the temple.  And yes I got my shoes back.

So today I learned that I shouldn’t have been worried about my leather pocketbook and shoes.  I can eat beef while I am here.  A great number of people speak English. I learned that each person can interpret Hinduism to fit their own needs. And that I could walk barefoot outside in Bangalore. 

Sorry no pictures for today.  I forgot to bring the cord to connect the camera, that I used today, to the computer.

Day 1: Bangalore the Beginnings

My first official day in India and on the ride from the airport to the hotel my first thought was, "Hey almost everything is written in English".  Not just the signs from the airport, but the billboards, the advertisements, stores, everywhere I looked I saw script writing (I am not sure what language) as well as English.  I kept trying to wrap my tired brain around it but I just couldn't.  Why would everything still be written in the colonial language?

I learned the next day in our classes.  India has thousands of languages and dialects and in order to keep one group from gaining power over another they kept English as one of the main languages.  In fact all students are taught English in schools.  As I reflect on my own language abilities, I was only offered the chance to take another language when I got to high school.  How much better could I speak Spanish if I had been given the opportunity to learn throughout my school years?  What type of a disadvantage are students being placed in when they only have a few years to learn another language?

My other big discovery was Bangalore traffic.  It is unbelievable.  Apparently all drivers blow their horns and then wedge their vehicle wherever they want it.  I have seen ten lanes of traffic inside two paved lanes.  If you fit you can go seems to be the motto.  Vehicle is also the right word because there are cars, buses, mini-vans, motorcycles, scooters, ox carts, bull carts, donkey carts, auto rickshaws and cows all competing for space on the roads.  On side streets people are thrown into the equation.  Chaos.  Yet I didn't see anyone hit each other.  Oh and for an American they all drive on the wrong side of the road.  I made the decision that I will not drive here.  It is adventure enough to ride or try and cross the street.

The auto rickshaw

Traveling: Adventures in the Airport

I basically understand the laws of physics and know why planes fly but I am not sure what physics law that airlines break on long flights when your seat begins to shrink.  My first two flights seat wise were not to bad however by the third flight the seat kept getting smaller and smaller and my legroom decreased from a tiny amount to nothing.  It might be that I fly economy, otherwise know as steerage and I am normally in the very back of the plane.
I even tried begging to go to first class because it was upstairs on the plane and I have always wanted to see what that looks like but no such luck.  Also there is no way on a teachers salary to afford anything other than economy.  The flight crew though was wonderful and very helpful and also shared places to visit while I was in India.

At Dulles Airport I did see something that I had never seen before anywhere, a bathroom for service dogs.  It makes sense they have to go to the bathroom too and they wouldn't have the luxury of using the wonderfully spacious airline bathrooms.  But I cracked up when I saw it.  First the sign and then the  turf covered room complete with a fire hydrant.

After seeing this I started thinking what other strange and entertaining things have other people seen while traveling.  So please share your experiences.